The kerfuffle over West Australian truffles wafted to a new high on July 29, with a record estimated 25,000 fungi fanatics eating their way through the annual Mundaring Truffle Festival in Perth's Hills.
Now in its sixth year, the festival celebrates the state's burgeoning truffle industry, which produces more of the aromatic fungus than the rest of Australia combined.
With its damp, well-irrigated soils and Mediterranean climate, most WA truffles are grown around the southwest orchard town of Manjimup, about 300km south of Perth.
Fetching anywhere from $2000 to $9000 a kilogram, WA's "black gold" harvest now attracts chefs from around the world.
Celebrity chef and Rockpool founder Neil Perry, who conducted a truffle master-class during the festival, said the local produce was as good as anywhere in the world.
"A great Australian truffle is as good as a great French one," he told reporters.
"I think it's amazing Australia has been growing its own truffles and we've been doing it now for near on 10 years.
"Each of the seasons is getting better and better, with more volume, and the price is becoming more affordable."
This appears to be good news for those who would otherwise be put off by the price.
But then, a little truffle goes a long way, according to Perry, who rates his favourite fungal dish as the simple truffle omelette.
"Truffles are best done simply," he said.
"A truffle omelette, cooked under a chicken skin, truffle and egg, or served grated over pasta.
"All those classic, simple dishes are great because they make truffle the hero."
A good truffle, Perry said, should be "firm and dry, but should still have a slight spring to it and be nice and black through the centre with very fine, white veins and a really beautiful aroma - almost like a petroleum smell".
"It's got this amazing taste, a sort of a rich, earthy, umami, concentrated intense mushroom flavour," the celebrated chef said.
The Perth festival was inspired by local French chef Alain Fabregues, owner of the internationally-acclaimed The Loose Box in Mundaring, who had been watching the rapid growth of WA's truffle industry and believed, as in France, a festival should be held in a small village to celebrate each harvest.
The event now attracts truffle aficionados from around the world.
